Jess Greenwood, May 10th, 2013
I felt so off my path, so “un-real”… for about 8 months to be exact, and after a few gruesome jobs at work where iexperienced first hand the tragedy and suffering so many humans experience. I had to step back and really weigh up what i was making my life about. Juggling work with surfing, but putting everything into my career and falling exhausted (mentally,physically and emotionally) into the water on my days off. Although my job is demanding and directly involved with servicing the community, it still didn’t seem “right” or positive to me, to be helping people whilst i was in such a “wrong” state of mind. I was drinking excessively (for my normal standards at least) as a coping mechanism to deal with my own pressure at work and at home and i definitely wasn’t asking for help all too much…
Then the surfing community lost such a fine person “CHRIS DRAKE” who i had the pleasure of meeting through our mutual bestie Charlie Hand and was lucky to share some surfing with him and do the odd trip here and there whilst on the pro juniors.
Although i would never claim to be close to him i knew enough about him and the reaction of the people closest to him to see how much affect he had on people. It wasnt because he was successful (although he was) it wasn’t because he always looked so fit and styling (he always did)…it was because he had “the game” as i like to refer to life, figured out pretty sweetly.
-”As each day comes to us refreshed and anew, so does my gratitude renew itself daily. The breaking of the sun over the horizon is my grateful heart dawning upon a blessed world.” CD.
He took everyday as a gift and lived every moment to the full. You can see it through the company he kept and how the people who loved him most carry on their days with as much passion and motivation as ever, even with that loss. That’s what he inspired in people and still does every day.
So how does this link into “my” story?…it was time to stop playing the “victim” in my own life and creating my own sadness and darkness. It was time to kick my self into gear and find the positive out of the last 8 months. After a lot of venting sessions, dates with counsellors and endless and non judgemental support from my family, friends and partner, it seems i’ve found my way again. I started smiling again when i saw the “SMILE LIKE DRAKE” campaign begin. I also stopped taking my work so seriously and started enjoying the little positive things i get to achieve in my career every day and i also reignited my raw passion for the ocean and surfing. Thanks C.D. for leaving such a beautiful mark on our world, for reminding me that life is short and should be enjoyed and to live from the heart every moment.